Saturday, January 31, 2015
Design 2094 C2 Yankee 38
This production yacht is a development of Lightning, a One Ton Cup Winner, but with more of a cruising accommodations plan. Lightning was built by Minneford of aluminum. This boat is of fiberglass and was very competitive, built by Yankee Yachts of Santa Ana, California. The year was 1971.
Its a good business plan: take a proven race winner and make it available to a mass market.
Here are the plans.
Here is a peek at her underbody.
Principal Dimensions
LWL 28-9"
Beam 11-8"
Draft 6-3"
Displacement 15,389 lbs
Ballast 7,327 lbs
Sail Area 629 sq ft
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Design 1346 Windrose
Windrose was built by Robert E. Derecktor shipyard of Mamaroneck, New York. She is heavily constructed of white oak for framing and backbone, and double planked topsides (1.5" total thickness) with a single planked (1.25") bottom. Her deck is teak over plywood. She was designed and built for Jakob Isbrandtsen, a successful shipping magnate and sailor. She was launched in 1959.
The following is paraphrased from a history we received from her owner:
She began her racing career in 1959, flying under the flag of the New York Yacht Club. She raced in several local races, seasoning her crew and shaking down equipment, including the New York Yacht Club Cruise and Astor cup, finishing 3rd in her division.
In June 1960 she was entered for the first time in the Newport to Bermuda race. The early stages of the race had light reaching and running conditions, but a storm lurked beyond the Gulf Stream. The leading boats, where Windrose was positioned, suffered knockdowns, were hove to in Force 8 to 9 conditions, or were running under bare poles. Windrose kept sailing but near the finish, as told by Rod Stephens, “When she was in a fine position to be the winner, the [experimental] swedge fitting on the upper end [of the head stay] broke off from fatigue” and she dropped back out of the leader position (but miraculously didnt lose her mast).
In July of 1960 Windrose took on her first Atlantic challenge, racing in the King of Sweden Cup, a grueling 3,000-mile race from Bermuda to Skagen, Sweden. She raced hard and finished less than 3 minutes behind Figaro to finish second against many larger boats.
In 1961 Windrose was chosen as one of 3 boats to represent the USA in the Admiral’s Cup. The competition was impressive with new rules and new boats on the line. The US team consisted of Windrose, Figaro & Cyane. These three piled up the points in the Channel Race in a most commanding way. Windrose won the race outright while Figaro and Cyane were fourth and fifth of the Admirals Cuppers. With Windrose’s imposing lead there was a 30-point gap between Britain and the USA. Windrose again led the US in the Britannia Cup, but had to retire from the NY Yacht Club Cup, so that going into the Fastnet the United States lead had been reduced from 30 to 13. It all hung on the Fastnet - a decider of many Admirals’ Cups to come. Windrose led the US team all through the race but ran out of wind from the Bishop to the Lizard and the big Dutch sloop Zwerver claimed first place. Windrose finished at a very close 3rd, well ahead of her team mates, racking up enough points to keep the USA in first place and the Cup left British home shores for the first time in history.
1962 brought a year of light winds as Windrose participated in numerous races including the Newport-Bermuda race, the Block Island Race, the Astor Cup & the New York Yacht Club Regatta among others. Although light winds prevented her from taking home first place trophies in most races, she campaigned successfully gaining class honors and honing her crew.
The Transatlantic race of 1963 was a real bruiser. The first eight days were sailed in thick fog and after it lifted the weather went from bad to worse. Light winds gave way to erratic variables from every direction, which finally formed into a fierce Atlantic gale lasting a full six days. Sails were blown out, rigging failed, and spinnaker poles were broken on most of the yachts in the race, the big class A boat, Dyna even had her rudder carried away in the worst of the gale. Windrose was damaged in the storm but continued sailing and racing and on July 24, 1963 the headlines of the New York Times read “Windrose, Cyane 47 seconds apart”. After a battering from the Atlantic gales, Windrose came in a heartbreaking 47 seconds behind her old rival in the 3,000 mile race. She was one of the first 5 boats to cross the line overall, ahead of Cyane but on corrected time she finished second, 47 seconds behind Cyane.
Windrose reigned supreme in the selection trials and was again chosen to represent the USA in the Admiral’s Cup of 1963. This was sure to be a hotly contested series, the first defeat at the hands of the United States in 1961 rankled British sailors who were determined to return the cup “home”. All three of the British boats were newly built with the Cup in mind. This was the beginning of the new trend in racing yacht design that would sacrifice comfort for efficiency. The three boats in the US team, Windrose, Figaro and Dyna were old hands with lots of experience and miles under their keels. Windrose again led her team mates in the Britannia, Channel and NY Yacht Club Cups, racking up 57 points to their 27 points each, but it wasn’t quite enough to best the British who headed into the Fastnet 130-129 against the USA. Again it was all to hang on the Fastnet. After light winds in the earlier races, the conditions turned nasty, and the race was run in what has proved to be the worst weather in Fastnet history (even worse than the 1979 storm). Figaro’s mainsail split early on slowing her down and then Windrose suffered damage to her rig which dropped her back from her leading position to 13th place and put paid to the US’s chances at the Cup. The Cup returned to British soil, but Windrose’s earlier wins were enough to place the USA in second place overall.
Windrose participated successfully in several racing series in 1964 including the Block Island series and the Bermuda Race-Onion Patch series and was then again chosen to represent the USA in her third Admiral’s Cup series. Again, most boats in the series were custom built with the Cup in mind. The new idea was to keep the boats as light as possible. Rod rigging was used for the first time and new sails and bendy booms were remarkable innovations of the day. These were out-and-out racing boats of the offshore breed of the time; there was no consideration given to cruising, perhaps for the first time in any off shore racing designs. Windrose placed 1st in the Channel Cup among her US team boats, Caper and Figaro, chalking up considerable points against the newer yacht designs, but her luck ran out in the Britannia cup when she (along with two other boats) was disqualified for misreading the sailing instructions and passed the finish line incorrectly. In a reverse of the weather patterns of the 1963 Admiral’s Cup, the wind began to slacken and calm conditions caused several of the boats to withdraw from the New York Yacht Club Cup, including Windrose. The sturdy build and comfort of Windrose which served her so well in the harsh conditions of the North Atlantic gales, now served to undermine her chances of a win in the Fastnet. 1965 turned out to be one of the lightest wind conditions in Fastnet history. The newer, lighter British boats took the day and retained the Cup for Great Britain.
Windrose is now based in Phuket, Thailand. She is currently for sale. Click here to see the listing and many more images.
Here are the plans. Her clipper bow is quite unusual for Sparkman & Stephens designs.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 47-10"
LWL 32-0"
Beam 11-7"
Draft 6-8"
Displacement 32,500 lbs
Ballast 11,500 lbs (outside) 500 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 1,037 sq ft
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Friday, January 30, 2015
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More about Oho Design 757
We occasionally hear from owners who have created websites about their boats. This one deserves special mention. The website is about the classic S&S sloop, Oho, design #757. There are some great sailing shots like the one shown above plus some historical data.
Click here to access the website.
Heres an article about the boat we found in the files that we failed to include in the original posting. Please double click for zoom.
Thursday, January 29, 2015
My Boat Has Been Built Well kind of
Here I am going to quote Jeff Spiras post on his Facebook page.
A 27 Sitka Pacific Power Dory was recently completed in Minnesota by Raymond Pollock.
According to Ray, it was started in January 2012 and was in the water in the end of October, working mostly alone and taking 6 weeks off in the middle. It features V-Berths, 30 gallons of fresh water, a water heater for the shower, 28 gallon septic tank and 55 gallons for fuel. It also has a full galley and cabin heater.
With the ETEC 115 horse engine, the top speed is 34 mph (according to the GPS) and will cruise over 30, but runs all day and very economically at 22. It maneuvers and handles very well, and doesnt pound when crossing even large boat wakes. It only draws 7-1/2 inches of water with full fuel tanks, two people and a 2 large dogs. For a 27 footer, it tows very easily also.
I do have a message for Mr.Pollock.
Way to go.Your version of Sitka is top notch.I am jealous.I hope my boat turns out have as good.Looks real professionally done.Youre my hero.
Here is Mr.Pollocks boat.Sweet ride,eh?Click pics for larger view.
Even Mr.Pollocks lovely mother took a turn at the helm.Way to go,I say.
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Easy is Overrated
An easy answer would be, because my goal is not just to build a boat, but to learn how traditional wooden boats are put together, so I can maintain a larger wooden boat, such as the Blue Moon.
I have absolutely nothing against modern techniques like stitch and glue, but building such a craft (as attractive as one seems as my deadline looms), would not help me understand traditional wooden boat construction.
But a fuller, more honest answer is that its just plain fun to do something that is really, really hard. And make no mistake - traditional boat building is hard. So hard that Howard Chapelle famously said that every boat builder should have a moaning chair that he can collapse into, moaning "How could I have been so stupid!", or other despairing phrases.
I actually havent found much use for the proverbial moaning chair, but I do get much pleasurable use from my thinking chair. And I certainly needed it yesterday, on Day 11 of my boat building marathon.
The 3M 101 arrived from Jamestown Distributors arrived on time and I quickly put it to use bedding the stem, keelson, and chine logs in Cabin Boys bow.
I then bent the two chine logs into their notches in the forms, and screwed or clamped them in the stern, using the small blocks Id attached to the forward side of the Station 4 form.
This is when I received a rude shock. At the back of the boat, the chine logs did not seem to line up correctly.
If you look at the upper right and left corners of the transom, you will see the ends of the chine logs sticking out on both sides. This is bad. And not just a little bad, but major league bad.
The correct place for the chine logs to end is just inside the transom... ideally, right in the corners of the transom. They must be inside because the planking needs to fit over the chine logs and attach directly to the sides of the transom. Obviously, that cant happen with the chine logs sticking so far out of their assigned place.
Now, Im sure experience boat builders can diagnose the problem with one glance at the photo above, but even after taking this photo, I had to retire to my thinking chair for a good long time.
What was the problem?
Were the forms too wide? Is that why the chine logs were too far out?
Or did I cut the transom (my precious piece of solid mahogany!) too small?
Or perhaps the transom was not in the right place. Maybe if I moved it back a bit, the lines of the chines would converge correctly... but that meant Id have to scarf additional lengths onto the chine logs and keelson. Why had I cut them off with such flair and confidence?
In other words, how could I have been so stupid!?!? (Okay, so for just a teensy moment, my thinking chair turned into a moaning chair.)
For any of these problems to be the cause, one or more of my measurements would have to be way off, I thought. So I got up out of my thinking chair and started checking various measurements against the lofting.
First, I verified that the length of the keelson was correct to within a 1/4". So transom was in the right position. I would not have to learn scarfing today (big phew!!!)
And the width of the Station 4 form was also correct. As were all the other station widths.
And the width of the transom was correct, as well!
In fact, all the measurements were correct. So why didnt the chine logs line up properly?
I wish Id actually looked at Photo #1, because the problem is acutely obvious in the photo (which I didnt really see until I sat down to write this blog), whereas it was not so obvious to the naked eye.
But after a few more minutes in my thinking chair, I came up with a theory. What if I moved the blocks that secured the chine logs to the form from the front of the form to the back of the form? Would that make any difference?
Indeed it did! If you study the two photos above, you will see that in Photo 1, the clamps on the forward side of Station 4 actually bent the ends of the chine logs outwards.
Whereas, in Photo 2, the clamps on the aft side of Station 4 properly bend the ends of the chine logs inwards.
In Photo 1, the lines of the chine logs are really distorted... they should form a nice smooth curve from bow to stern, as they do in the Photo 2.
(BTW, I had to move the transom back an inch or so to make room for the port side chine, which still needs to be trimmed properly. Thats why you can see a gap between the starboard chine log and the transom. But when the transom is correctly positioned, the chine logs and keelson fall exactly right on the transom.)
For the curious, here is a close up of the chine log clamp:
So, phew! Disaster averted. And I call this fun? You bet I do. Not only was the problem itself an interesting puzzle, but finding the solution taught me to trust my lofting, and also reminded me to be much more sensitive to the lines of my boat. If I had just looked at the lines of the chine logs, I would have seen how far they were being bent out of line.
They dont call them fair lines for nothing. If they look right, they probably are right. If they look bent and tortured, they are definitely wrong.
Would it have been faster to build a boat without these blasted chine logs? Sure!
Would I have learned as much as I did if I hadnt had to solve this difficult problem? Definitely not!
And what do I call the intense feeling of satisfaction that I got from solving this problem?
You got it: fun!
>>> Next Episode: Seeing DNA
VIDEO OF THE DAY
I met Helena rowing (I was her rowing coach), and we both still love rowing. Unfortunately, its hard to do here in winter. At least I thought it was, until I saw this video... Ideas, ideas, ideas...
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-- John
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Wednesday, January 28, 2015
Wooden Boat Making Is Now A fairly easy Construction
Are you currently comfortable sufficient to use instruments like retracted, screwdriver, claws and found? If yes it means that your own carpentry capabilities must be absolutely very good. Simultaneously if you have extra moment and you also dont know what direction to go then this write-up might help an individual. Let us discover how you can utilize the and create a thing extraordinary.
Wooden Boat Making the idea that one thing you are able to construct with the carpentry capabilities. People have any misconception that just professional is capable of doing this task. To the contrary you as a possible individual, with the dedication and also patience could surely execute a better task than all of them. All you need is a simple idea as well as reference how to pull off it.Discover a blueprint: Any blueprint can be a drawing in which explains in more detail about the boat you wish to generate. It has details about the equipment you shall need, the around time to total the task, the pad or the form of wood to use etc. Once you get a palm on one, you may also customize the design depending on your ease. Keep in mind that the security is the most crucial. When changing the design keep your fundamentals set up. These can be seen easily on the net. Usually these are for sale to free, yet there are some plans that you may have to pay for.
Your life purpose: what is the function of the boat? Choose this element because this will certainly modify the functioning. How will you make use of the boat, do you want to produce a speed boat or perhaps a regular line vessel? End up being very sure and also clear regarding the purpose prior to the process of timber boats creating, Material to use: The material for use will depend on the kind of construction an individual follow. Any stitch along with paste strategy will involve employed of solid wood as the bones, copper cables for stitches, marine stick for sticking and abs plastic, fiberglass as an substitute for give you boat several additional power. If you wish to pick a tedious technique, then that can involve remodeling like securing, having a platform in place. Pretty much everything has to be carried out before sticking the solid wood pieces collectively.
Make room: You need to certainly allot a suitable place which you could do your building function. It can be your own garage as well as your garden region. It is better if you maintain your construction with a platform. You are unable to afford to maintain shifting work as this may harm the boat. Concurrently the area ought to be a dried out place. This is because your power instrument or even the wood just isnt destroyed simply by water.
Thus, before starting the particular process acquire as much as details about this issue. Even the smallest doubt must be solved. There are lots of blogs on the internet that may help you. Additionally, there are many publications that have focused pages because of this particular subject. These are many of the easy steps required for making an individualized and customized wooden boat. Before going ahead and utilizing it, ensure it is safe adequate to float within water. You need to keep a emergency first aid kit. It is always safer to be prepared for the particular worst particularly when it is in connection with the safety in your life.
Author is providing fully customisable Wooden Boat Making as per your selection and also you are certain to get the expert boat building plans, Based on numerous years of boat building experience.
Design 1188 Fidelio Her 12 Sisters
13 boats were built to this design. The first was Fidelio, built by Matthiessen & Paulsen of Arnis Schlei, Germany and launched in 1956. 12 sisters would follow built at various yards around the world. If you look at the title blocks closely on the plans you can see that the same plans were used for design #1198, Aventura. Looking over the plan list though I can see this boat is a nearly identical copy of design #1054, Finisterre.
Here are the plans.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 38-8"
LWL 27-6"
Beam 11-3"
Draft 3-11" (board up) 7-4" (board down)
Displacement 18,640 lbs
Ballast 5,860 lbs (outside) 300 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 713 sq ft
Sheer Joy Sheer Clamps Anyway
1. Made no thickened epoxy; and
2. Laid no fiberglass tape
Hurray! But never fear - those days will return. What we did instead was attach the first piece of the keel at the bow and glued the major piece of the starboard sheer clamp. A sheer clamp is a piece of wood that runs along the hull where the decking will meet the hull. It helps keep the hulls shape and reinforces the boat against bumps and the constant pull of the sail.
More on 48 Classic Design 2760
The devils in the detail
I was looking at the route of one of my water tank fill lines on the starboard side, and started to get concerned that I was making things a little too tight in regard to the fill lines and the lines for my future air conditioning unit. I decided to re route one of the water tank fill line to give me, what I consider, barely enough room to route the two cooling lines for my AC unit. Out comes the hole saw so I can create an 1 1/2" bore through frame #8. Hole sawing complete, so now I have to de-burr the hole, put a couple of layers of epoxy primer, give the primer a day to set up, then top coat with a couple lay
ers of acrylic enamel. That little hole slowed things up a minimum of one day.I also was looking at the steel door jamb of the engine room door, and somehow the bright white door jamb was not going to look so good next to the ever darkening Cherry interior. I decided to paint the door jamb brown to make things "flow" a little smoother as far as the eye was concerned. I had some left over acrylic urethane from another project, and while it could have been a little lighter in shade, I have formally called it good enough.
I picked up a few hundred #12 1 1/2 brass wood screws from Fastenal today, and barring any more nit picking, I should begin some finishing work after the holiday weekend.
Tuesday, January 27, 2015
The beautiful Tana Vika
Today I received this beautiful one from Tony and Angela Maslin, of their Dix 43HD "Tana Vika". They were sailing in company with Beth Leonard and Evans Starzinger on "Hawk" along the Newfoundland coast. Thanks to Beth for the photo.
Her construction is aluminium and she was built from a kit that was pre-cut by CNC using cutting files prepared by Robert Christinger of Alumar Yachts.
PS. When Tony sent me the photo he said that they were able to hold "Hawk", a Samoa 47, for the 30 mile beat during which the photo was taken. I didnt initially include it in my blog in case Tony was stretching the truth a bit. Since then Beth has confirmed that the two boats had a great race and were a good match.
Radius Chine Plywood Class 950
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| Sail plan of Didi 950 |
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| Class 950 accommodation |
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| 3D Profile of Didi 950 |
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| 3D View with contours to highlight hull shape. |
For more info go to http://google.com/didi950.htm and visit our website at http://google.com/ to see our other designs.
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Assembling a Birds Mouth Hollow Mast
In this series of photos, Ill just show some basic steps in the assembly process. The marking and cutting of the staves which make up the spar need an article of their own.
Because of the large surface area which needs to be covered with epoxy, time is critical, and you need to be organised!
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| First four staves laid up dry to test fit. I am using U-shaped plywood forms to hold the staves loosely together and in alignment. The forms are clamped to a long piece of timber acting as a strongback. |
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| There are only about four forms for this entire mast, which is 23 feet long. They are simply there to prevent the eight staves getting out of control during the assembly. Once together, the structure is self-supporting, but it does need to be straightend very carefully before the glue goes off. |
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| I always make solid inserts for the bottom of the mast. It usually extends up to above the level of the mast partners. The internal V cut-out is there so that there is no abrupt transition in stiffness between the solid and hollow sections. |
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| I carefully shape the solid inserts so that they fit the internal shape of the mast without holding the staves apart. A slightly loose fit is good, as it allows a rich glue-line between the insert and the inner walls of the mast. |
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| Another view of the insert |
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| All eight staves are lined up in order, and at a convenient working height. Here I have a helper, as we need to be able to get epoxy out fast. We are applying the sealing coats to what will eventually be the inside of the mast, as it will not be accessible after assembly. |
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| I use foam rollers to apply the epoxy, but you need to be careful to avoid pressing too hard and causing the wet epoxy to foam like whipped cream. After each coat is applied, I run over it lightly with a paint brush to smooth the surface and break any bubbles. |
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| These are the staves at the masthead end. As you can see, these are almost at the minimum size limit for this method - I had done careful calculations ahead of time to make sure it would be feasible. You can see here that the epoxy coatings are building up. |
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| This shows me working on another mast. We had already applied the glue to the gluing surfaces using various techniques, and at this point I was rapidly adding extra where required, and was smoothing the glue on all mating surfaces |
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| The assembly just after putting together and placing a few cable ties around it to keep everything in place. Note the squeeze-out beginning to occur. It is important to have the glue fairly runny, as excess viscosity makes it very hard to clamp the total assembly tightly enough so that the mast assumes the correct diameter. |
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| Start with a few, evenly-spaced cable ties, and then put on more in-between. |
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| I use high-quality cable-ties and tighten them with the aid of pliers. |
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| As you can see, Im serious about getting a good and even clamping! Although you cant see it well in the photo, I use multiple windings of packaging tape to apply extra pressure where needed. There are many different methods of clamping, but this system works for me. |
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| Slices sawn off the top and bottom ends of the mast shown in the construction photos. You will note that when I cut the birds mouth cutouts, I run the saw blade just a little deeper than required, so that I get a little resevoir for epoxy, and that the staves fit in without hang-ups. |
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| Here is a finished mast on another boat I built a couple of years ago. |